Tabriz and Teheran by Train

Mascha:
Brrr...it is winter in Iran. But don't be afraid. Winter meens around 10C during the day and -3C during the night (which we spent inside so far). As we had to enter Iran before 13.12. and there was snow coming, we decided to take a train from Van to Teheran, with a stopover in Tabriz.

Tabriz was great! On the train we met an iranian woman, our age. Acctually we did not really meet her, but we greeted each other with "Ciao". Matteo actually thought she was italian. On the platform she came to me and we started to talk. She was speaking an amazingly good italian!!! "Perla" (what her name would be italian) is from Teheran, but is now studiing theater in Tabriz. After a few minutes she invited us to stay at her place, which I coudn't beleave. I tought maybe I did not understand correctly, but then we ended up in her appartment and stayed for 2 nights. It was a wonderful first impression with iranian life. We were amazed by her hospitality and were introduced to some of her friends with which we had a lovely evening in a park, with Tabriz's traditional fastfood (smashed potatoe and a smashed egg in a very thin bread, served with ayran) and waterpipe....

On the night train to Teheran we saw our first snow, but fortunately it was not snowing in Teheran. The train -trip was very funny. Because of the Ashura festivities in Iran this month all 2nd class tickets were sold out. So we took 1st class and travelled in one of the very stylish waggons from the 70th! With huge seats, a carped on the floor, even a television (also from the 70th) and a telephone. Even Dinner was served in the coupe! We felt rather strange in our dirty travellers outfit, but the twor men travelling in our coupe didn't mind and started to talk lively with Matteo (not with me of cause, because I'm a woman). As mostly, discussing with Matteo the subject turned quickly to politics. First iranian politics, but then Matteo was also questioned about the vote against Berlusconi on the 14.12. They were well informed and did not support Italian's Persident. ;-)

At the moment the Shia Muslims are in the month of Muharram. This is a sad month were they remember the martyrdom of Imam Husayn ibn Ali. The most important day of sorrow is called Ashura and will be this week. Everywhere, especcially at night you can see crowds of men in black standing in rows or in a cycle and hitting theirselfs (symbolically or for real) to the sound of drums and sorrow speeches through microphone. It is a bit irritating, but still interesting. For more see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Day_of_Ashura

Well, now we are in Teheran and we haven't seen too much of the city so far, because Matteo was busy getting a package with bike equipment send by his father from Italy (Thank you so much Paolo!!!).  But we will do some sight seeing tomorrow. From here on I hope we will start to cycle again. So far temperatures are ok, and as I have to wear hijab (a headscarf, long trousers and a shirt) it is even more plesant to cycle with 10-15C than with 20 or even 40...